보너스-범방산▲지명의 유래를 찾아 낙동강 거북이의 전설을 따라서 > 산행후기

보너스-범방산▲지명의 유래를 찾아 낙동강 거북이의 전설을 따라서

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) 작성자 永漢 메일보내기 이름으로 검색
댓글 32건 조회 18,119회 작성일 2006-02-13 00:16:00

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범방산▲지명의 유래를 찾아 낙동강 거북이의 전설을 따라서
(부제:만덕(萬德)과 구포(龜浦) 지명의 유래를 찾아서)

- 언제 : 2006.2.11 10:30~15:30
- 얼마나: 11:10~15:10(4시간)
- 날 씨 : 박무 속의 대체로 맑은 날
- 몇명: 홀로
- 어떻게 : 지하철,버스 이용
▷만덕사지~구포중학교(구포도서관)~범방산~거북바위~운수사~신모라주공아파트

- 개인산행횟수ː 2006-7 [W산행기록-136/P산행기록-278/T624]
- 테마: 문화유산답사산행,근교산행,지명유래확인산행
- 산높이:범방산 272m
- 좋은산행 개인호감도ː★★★★

"만덕"이라는 지명의 유래가 된 폐사지인 만덕사지를 둘러 본후 구포뒷산으로 알려진 범방산의 거북바위를 들러보았다.거북바위는 "구포"라는 지명의 유래가 된 바위이기 때문에 이번 산행은 지명의 유래를 알아보는 산행이었다.

지명이라는 것은 새로 만들어지는 지명도 있지만 지명 그 자체가 전설이 될 정도로 오래 된 지명도 있다.

사실 이러한 산행은 충분한 사전자료를 필요로 하는 기획테마에 어울리는 산행이지만 그 동안 문화유산답사를 겸한 산행을 하면서 전설에 대해 생각해보고,풀리지 않는 부분은 소설같은 상상력이 필요한 산행이라서 사색산행의 일부분으로도 생각 할 수 있는 보물찾기 식 산행이라서 색다른 맛이 있다.

먼저 만덕의 유래를 알아본다.

만덕동(萬德洞)에 대한 전해오는 이야기에 의하면, 임진왜란 때에 금정산 기슭인 이곳에 1만여의 피난민이 피난와서 모두 화를 면했었는데, 이에 따라 1만여명이 덕을 입었다고 하여 이 마을 이름이 만덕동이 되었다고 한다. 한편, 만덕동에는 예부터 기비현(其比峴) = 사비현(射比峴)이라는 큰 고개가 있었다. 낙동강연안에서 동래로 통하는 이 고개는 동래지역과 서부경남지역을 연결하는 중요한 고개로서 사람들이 많이 이용하였으나 길이 워낙 높고 험하고 숲도 많이 우거진 곳이었다. 이에 따라 이곳은 장꾼들을 노리는 도적떼가 자주 출몰하였다고 한다. 그리하여 조선시대 동래부 관내에서 도둑이 심하기로는 만덕고개가 으뜸이고, 다음은 모너머고개(송상현공 동상이 있는 고개)였다고 하며 당시의 사람들은 혼자 만덕고개를 넘는 것을 겁내었다고 한다. 전하여 오는 말로는 만 사람이 떼를 지어 고개를 넘어가야 온전하기 때문에 '만등고개'라고 하였다 한다. 이 만등에서 만덕이란 이름이 유래되었다고 한다. 『고려사』에는 충혜왕의 서자 석기(釋器)의 머리를 깎아 만덕사에 보냈다는 기록이 있다. 그 만덕사는 만덕동에 지금 남아 있는 사지를 그 만덕사 텃자리로 본다. 그 만덕사로 인해 만덕고개란 이름이 생겨난 것으로 보인다. 만덕동은 신도시로 인구의 급증으로 1989년 만덕1,2동으로 분동되고, 1990년 만덕3동이 분동되었다. 자연마을로는 만덕마을, 사기마을, 상리마을, 중리마을, 하리마을이 있었다.

구포의 유래는 이렇다.

"구포라는 지명은 거북 '龜' 자로 시작되므로, 거북이에 얽힌 이야기가 전해온다. 그 중에서 '구포의 남쪽으로 뻗은 범방산 한 줄기가 낙동강을 향하여 머리에 돌을 이고 있는 모습이 거북이와 같다'고 했는데, 이 산의 형상을 멀리서 바라보면, 거북이의 머리와 몸체를 그대로 빼어 놓은 것처럼 닮아 보인다. 양산군지》의 기록에 구포에는 정부에서 거두어 들인 세곡을 보관하는 남창이 설치되었는데, 창고의 남쪽에 구멍이 있는데, 겨울에도 따뜻한 기운이 있어, 이를 보고 사람들이 '바다의 거북이가 물가의 모래맡에 구멍을 파고 겨울잠을 자면서 쉬어 가는 곳이다' 하여 구포 지명에 유래를 들 있다.

11:21
만덕사지는 만덕1터널 입구에 위치하고 있다.상계봉 아래 석불사 병풍암이 있고 석불사 병풍암 아래로 1Km 내려오면 도로가에 만덕사지가 있으므로 만덕사지를 찾아가는 방법은 수월하다.

만덕사지에 입구에 도착하니 만덕사지와 석불사를 돌로 만던 이정표가 나란히 있다.

이 마을을 들어가는 길 이름이 사기길이다."사기"라는 말은 무얼 속인다는 의미가 아니고 여기서 사기는 사기(寺基)이므로 쉽게 말하면 절터가 있다는 의미다.여기서 절터는 석축을 의미한다고 보면 되겠다.

사기길을 따라 몇분 걸리지 않고 만덕사지에 도착하는데 여기서 석축의 규모에 압도된다.내가 여태까지 본 어느 석축보다도 크다.아니 이렇게 웅장한 석축을 본 적이 없다.한눈에 보아도 국가적 사업으로 만든 석축이다.

금당지의 석축도 통일신라에서 고려초기때 지어진 것으로 국내에서는 보기드문 양식으로 밝혀졌으며 금당의 규모도 505.5㎡로 범어사 대웅전의 126.5㎡보다 4배가량 큰 것으로 확인됐다.엄청난 규모에 압도되는 폐사지이다.

최근 부산시 지정기념물 3호인 만덕사지는 기비사지라는 설도 제기되었지만 기비사이든 만덕사이든 석축은 고려시대 양식이다.

우선 최근 제기된 기비사지설에 대한 신문내용을 보면....

부산 북구 만덕동의 고려시대 만덕사지는 사료에 나오는 만덕사가 아니라 다른 사찰이었을 가능성이 높다는 학설이 제기됐다.

부산근대역사관 최정혜 학예연구조사실장은 최근 부산박물관이 펴낸 '박물관연구논집' 11권에 게재한 '부산 만덕동사지 지명 고찰'이란 논문을 통해 만덕사지는 고려시대 이 지역에 대사찰이 존재했음을 알려주는 것이기는 하나 이 곳이 만덕사라고 단정하기에는 의문이 많다고 주장했다.

최 실장은 그 근거로 동래 만덕에 대한 문헌은 1740년에 편찬된 '동래부지'에 '서면 만덕리는 관문으로부터 12리 떨어져 있다'라고 기록된 만덕리 뿐이며 임진왜란 이전에 나온 지리서 어디에도 만덕이나 만덕사라는 지명은 찾아볼 수 없다는 점을 우선 거론했다.

또 고려시대 문헌에는 충혜왕의 서자 석기가 살았던 사찰, 1211년 요세가 중창한 사찰, 왜적의 침입을 받은 뒤 유탁이라는 전라도 사람이 포로를 구했다는 사찰 등 세 곳의 만덕사가 등장하나 다른 문헌들의 기록과 비교한 결과 전남 강진에 있는 지금의 백련사임이 분명하다고 언급했다.

이와 함께 최 실장은 만덕사지에서 기비사(祈毗寺)라고 적힌 명문기와가 9점 출토된 것과 관련, '신증동국여지승람' 등에 현재의 만덕고개를 기비현(其比峴)이라고 지칭하고 남해고속도로 만덕로 교차지점 일대를 기비골로 부르는 것으로 미뤄볼 때 상당한 연관성이 있을 것으로 추정했다. 이어 일본 도쿄국립박물관에 소장된 전북 김제시 금산사 향완(향로의 일종)에 '1178년…기비사 주지 삼중대사…'라는 기록이 적혀 있어 기비사는 고려시대 실존 사찰임이 분명하다고 말했다. 그동안 학계에서는 기비사 명문기와가 만덕사의 증축 등 불사 때 인근 사찰인 기비사가 보시한 것이라는 가설이 설득력을 얻고 있었다.

최 실장은 결론으로 현재까지의 발굴조사 결과 부산 만덕사지는 고려시대에 창건돼 조선전기까지 존속했던 대사찰 터임이 틀림없으나 출토 유물과 문헌 등을 고려할 때 충혜왕의 서자 석기가 있었던 만덕사보다는 고려시대 삼중대사가 주지로 주석한 기비사로 보는 것이 더 타당하다는 의견을 내 놓았다.

한편 부산박물관연구논집에는 '조선시대 오해야항목장 고찰'(나동욱 학예연구사) '고려·조선시대 화문자기의 종류와 표현양상'(성현주 학예연구사) '조선후기 청화백자의 민화성'(위순선 학예연구사) 등 7편의 논문이 수록됐다.

11:24
만덕사 안으로 들어가니 엄청난 규모의 석불팔각좌대가 나타난다.이 좌대를 보아 큰 돌부처를 모신것으로 추정하는데 보통 부처님의 좌대는 제일 아래쪽에 覆蓮과 그위에 中臺石,그위에 仰蓮으로 구성 좌대위에 불상을 존치한다.覆蓮은 연꽃좌대를 업어 놓은 좌대고 중대석은 그위에 얹는 중간대며 仰蓮은 연꽃좌대를 위로보게 쌓는 방법이다.남한에서 최대규모의 좌대라고 한다.

11:26
절터를 조성하기 위해 축조한 거대한 석축(大石壇)을 보면 바위의 규모에 압도된다.만덕사 입구 동편 석축을 보면 요즘 기술로도 쉽지 않을 바위와 1000년 이상 허물어지지 않은 고려인들의 석축기술이 돋보인다.

11:36
만덕사지를 나와 주변 계곡을 훓어보면서 거대한 바위가 계곡쪽에 있어서 무심결 올라보니 채석흔적이 뚜렷하다.만덕사에서 필요해서 돌을 채석 해 갔을 것이다.

11:45
만덕사 우측 계곡을 건너 산길을 따라 내려오니 거대한 석조수조가 보인다.옛날 사찰(寺刹)에서 물을 받아 담는 물통으로 쓰기 위해 조각(彫刻 )을 하다가 한가운데 금이 가서 실제로 쓰지 못한채 원래 위치에 남아 잇는것이다. 이곳 주민들은 돌 모양이 구유통과 닮아서 기시바위 기시돌이라고도 하며. 떡메바위로써 돌절구라는 해석을 내리기도 했는데 이 돌은 만덕사(萬德寺)에서 물통으로 쓰기 위해 만들었던 것으로 보이는 민속자료(民俗資料)이다.만덕사의 규모를 알 수 있다.

12:09
만덕사지 앞 길 맞은편에 당간지주가 있다.찾는것이 쉽지 않아서 현지인에게 물어보니 상세히 일러준다.파란 지붕의 성황당 옆에 당간지주가 달랑 하나있다. 당간지주 내면쪽으로 홈이 파져잇는 곳을 竿溝,구멍이 뚤여져 있는곳을 竿孔이라 한다.결국 만덕사 내로 도로가 생겼기 때문에 당간지주는 길 건너편에 있는 것이다.이 길은 건너편의 사기길과는 다르게 당간지주길이라고 부른다.

12:43
이제 구포의 유래를 알아볼 차례이다.원래 산행들머리는 구남지하철역이지만 구포초등학교 혹은 구포중학교쪽에서 보면 거북이가 잘 보인다고 해서 구명지하철역에서 하차했다.여기서 보니 정말 거북이 한마리가 뚜렷이 보인다.

13:04~13:31
구포중학교와 신축중인 구포도서관 옆 산길을 따라 오르니 산불감시원이 있고 주소를 적고 통과하니 마음을 깨끗이 한다는 청심장이 나오는데 제법 심산에 들어 온 느낌이다.

등로는 키큰 나무 사이로 아담한 반석이 이어지고 주변 잔설마저 정겹다.정상을 오르며 거북바위를 찾는데 정상에 도착했는데도 보이지 않는다.아래서 본 능선과 틀린 능선을 올라 온 것이다.정상에서 신어산을 바라보니 박무로 약간의 윤곽만 보이지만 유장한 낙동강과 함께 하고 있어 좋다.

여하튼 거북바위를 찾기 위해 또 다시 보물찾기를 해야 할 상황이다.정상 주변 바위들이 모두 거북바위처럼 보이지만 일치가 되지 않는다.

13:42
한참을 헤매며 다시 다른 능선을 따라 아래로 내려오니 보이지 않던 거북바위가 보인다.그 지점을 가늠하며 주위에 접근하니 의외로 굉장히 큰 바위이다.발아래 학교운동장이 보이고 낙동강이 조망된다.

14:07
다시 정상으로 오른 후 백양산 방향으로 길을 걸으니 키 큰 나무들과 평탄한 산길이 좋다.백양산이 바라보이고 산길을 쭉 걸으니 약수터가 나오고 곧 운수사에 도착한다.

14:39~49
운수사를 지나 이제 부터는 비포장 임도를 걷는데 여기는 제법 잔설때문에 미끄럽다.철조망으로 길이 막혀 하산하니 한방 오리고기,닭고기로 유명한 옹기돌담집이 나오는데 빨간 단풍이 인상적이다.옹기돌담집은 제실을 리모델링했기 때문에 일반 민가에서는 굉장히 산쪽으로 들어가 있는 곳이다.도로를 쭉 내려오니 곧 신모라주공아파트 단지로 내려오면서 오늘의 산행을 마친다.

소설같은 진실,진실같은 소설

우리애들이 어릴때는 엄마와 아빠는 어떻게 만났어라고 질문하는 경우가 있었다.맞선보고 결혼했지 하면 재미가 없지 않은가? 아빠가 어릴때는 낙동강에 "자라"는 많이 보았지만 정말 아주 옛날엔 거북이가 살았다.이곳은 바다와 낙동강이 만나는 곳이라 먹거리가 풍족했지...거북이 부부가 비옥한 김해평야와 맑은 낙동강에서 재미있게 살았는데 하루는 여름에 물난리가 나서 낙동강이 범람할 정도로.... 물이 말 그대로 물밀듯이 흘러내려온거야.그래서 암컷 거북이는 알을 낳았던 범방산으로 도망을 갔고,먹을 거리를 찾으러 갔던 숫거북이는 평소대로 김해평야 쪽으로 도망을 갔어.뒷날 사람들이 암거북이가 도망간 곳은 "거북이가 올라온 포구"라는 뜻으로 구포(龜浦)라고 하고,숫거북이가 피신한 김해평야의 마을 이름을 "거북이가 올라왔다"해서 등구(登龜)라고 한거야.아빠는 등구마을에서 어린시절을 보냈고,엄마는 구포에서 태어나서 구포초등학교를 다녔으니 아빠와 엄마는 맞선 보기전에 사실은 수천년의 인연이 있었던 거지..이런 소설을 조금 더 전에 상상했더라면 우리애들이 7~8세때 써 먹었을텐데.....초등학교 6학년인 딸과 중학교 2년생인 아들이 이젠 믿을줄지가 의문이다.....

P/S
구포,등구의 지명은 지금 존재하는 실명이며 나는 태어난 곳은 아니지만 어린시절 등구마을에서 자랐으며 나의 와이프는 구포에서 태어나 구포초등학교를 다녔다.당연 그외는 소설이다.

오늘 저녁은 와이프의 생일을 위한 외식을 할 예정이다.장모 및 처가식구와 옹기돌담집에서 외식을 해야겠다.

19:30

P/S

이름난 대로 음식은 맛있었으며 즐거운 외식자리가 되었다.식사시간 재미있으라고 "소설"을 가지고 썰을 풀었더니 아들과 딸의 동시패션격 한마디는 "뻥"이라고 한다.예상된 것이지만 역시 요즘 애들은 상상력이 부족하다는 생각이 든다.^^*

━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━

변화하는 모든 것 속에서 자신을 만난다.
風/流/山/行

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永漢님의 댓글

永漢 이름으로 검색 작성일 06-02-13 00:17

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