백두산 산행기
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일 시 : 2004.07.30 부터 08.02. (3박 4일)
접근방법: 부산역(KTX)-인천공항-중국장천(중국남방항공)-연길(중국북방공)- 이도백하(일박)-장백산 산문-5호경계비-종주-장백폭포아래 두견장
투숙 (2박)-천문봉 관광- 이도백하-연길-용정 (일송정)-용정 대성
중학교-아산뢰-도문시(두만강 조,중 국경지역)-연길-장춘(3박)-인천
국제공항-서울역(KTX)-부산역
산행코스:이도백하 출발-서백두산으로 이동-장백산 山門(찦차로 이동)출발-
종주기점- 5호 경계비(조,중 국경)-청석봉-녹명봉-용문봉-장백협곡-
장백폭포전망대-옥벽폭포-소천지로하산
산행시간: 10시간 트레킹
특 징: 민족의 영산으로 누구나 꼭 한번은 가봐야할 산임.
산행후기:이하 시간은 한국시간이며, 중국 현지시간은 한국시간 (-1시간) 임.
산정인 13명과 여행가이드 1명 산악가이드 1명=총 15명 등반.
제 1일차(7월30일) : 한국에서 이도백하로 이동"
(05:00)자택출발
(06:00)KTX로 부산역 출발
(08:40)서울역 도착
(09:00)공항리무진(KTX 연계시 \7,000)
(10:00)인천공항 도착
(11:00)보안검색,출국수속(휴가기간이라 여행객이 많아 보안검색 까다롭고 시
간 소요됨)
(12:30)인천공항 출발-중식은 기내식으로 해결
(14:20)장춘도착
* 비행기에서 바라본 북동중국의 첫인상: 높은 산이 전혀 보이지않는 넓은 땅
덩어리의 평야지대. 공중에서도 보이는 통일된 붉은 벽돌과 붉은 기와집.
국제선편 보다 국내선편 대합실이 크다. 원인은 모르겠지만 아마 체류시간
이 국내선편이 길기 때문인가 보다(물건 판매목적). 국제공항이지만
한국의 작은 역 규모이며 화장실도 엉망이고 소변기도 고작 2개에다가 지린
내가 풍겨 중국에 대한 첫인상이 나쁘게 보인다.
중국의 현지시간은 한국보다 한시간 늦다.
(15:10)입국수속
(15:30)국내선편으로 이동
(16:40)장춘출발:연길도착 쯤 비행기 창밖으로 비가 내리기 시작, 내일 천지
를 못볼까봐 걱정이다.
(17:30)연길도착,조선족 현지 가이드 합류
* 연변조선족 자치자치구에 수만명의 조선족이 살고 있고 다른지역에 비해 경제적인 경쟁력을 가지고 있으며 특히 백두산 관광이 이지역 소득의 15%를 차지함. 창밖으로 초가집도 보이고 한가로이
풀을 뜯는 소가 보이며 한국의 산천과 몹시 닮은 적당한 산천과 계곡들이 전혀 낮설지 않다. 다른점은 쭉쭉 뻗은 나무와 잘 보존된 자연환경이 너무 부럽다. 특히 붉은 벽돌집에 앞면에흰 석회칠을 한 집은 분명 조선족 집이란다. 아직도 우리의 옛모습을 지키고 있나보다.
(20:00)간이휴게소
(21:30)석식
(22:30)이도백하 도착
(23:00)호텔투숙
(24:00)등정 장비준비 및 취침
제 2일차(7월31일) :"백두산 등반"
(03:00)기 상 : 현지시간 02:00
(03:30)이도백하 출발. 현지 산행 가이드 한명 동승
* 비는 그쳤는데 안개로 인해 천지를 못보는게 아닌가 걱정이다.
백두산이 가까와 질수록 안개가 짙게 깔렸다.
(07:00)장백산 산문(山門)도착
*아침 점심 각 도시락 2개씩, 오이 2개씩, 물 한통씩 배당.
*화장실을 다녀왔다. 화장실이 가관이다 논산훈련소 신병때 생각이 났다.
화장실 천정 뚜껑이 없고 손잡이도 잡고 있어야했다. 이러다 누가 모자라도 들고 가 버리면 꼼짝없이 당할 수 밖에 ㅋㅋㅋ.
(07:10)짚차로 이동시작: 백운봉 산장에서 휘발유를 사용하는 짚차로 산장출발.
(08:20)종주산행 기점 도착
* 조식: 가져온 도시락으로 아침을 먹으려 했지만 영상14'c 온도에 힘없는 밥이 젓가락에서 미끄러진다. 마침 조선족이 운영하는 버스 매점에 신라면 컵라면을 팔았다. 한개 \2,000.
(08:50)산행출발
* 구름안개로 시야불량 전방 5m 이상이 보이지 않는다. 이러다가 천지를 못볼것 같다. 속상하고 걱정이 앞선다. 다리에 힘이 빠져 계속된 계단을 올라가는데 힘이 드는데도 기태는 잘도 따라온다. 사진도 찍을 수 없었다.
(09:20)5호 경계비 도착 (조선과 중국의 국경)
* 북한과 중국의 국경 경계비가 있는곳으로 약 30cm 나무로 된 경계선만 있고 분지로 바람이 억세게 불고 있었다. 잠시 월담을 하여 대한민국 만세를 불러봤다. 작은 돌맹이 하나를 주머니에넣고 우리땅을 뒤로하고 천지를 보러 출발한다.첨 밟아보는 북한땅이라서 그런지 기분이 묘하다.
(10:00)청석봉 도착
* 척성봉에서 심한 안개로 지척이 안보인다. 시원 쐬주를 한병 꺼내 천지를 향해 술잔을 뿌리며 기원한다. "제발 천지를 열어 주소서!!!!!!!"
(11:00~11:20))천지를 보다
*청석봉을 지나 약 한시간 백운봉을 앞두고 협곡으로 돌아가기 위하여 막 내리막길을 돌아가는 차에 우리들 기원이 하늘에 닿았는지 큰 바람이 불고 잠깐 천지를 보여 주더니 금새 안개 구름으로 닫아버린다. 우리는 현지 산행 가이드와 상의하여 기다려 보기로 했다. 잠시뒤 안개가 걷히기시작하며 하늘이 천지를 열어준다. 이 감격을 뭐라 표현할까. 그렇게 보고싶던 어머니의 젓가슴같은 천지를 또렷히 보았다. 이제는 안개가 서서히 사라지며 북한땅 장군봉과 북한군 초소도 시야에 들어왔다. 열린 천지는 닫힐줄 모르고 우리가 하산할 때 까지 잔잔한 안개로 시야를 가렸지만 방해를하지는 않았다. 사진도 원없이 찍었다. 마침 부산 사상에서온 <백두종주를 마치고 마지막 으로 백두산 등정 중> 8명의 원정대를 만났다. 그들은 감격에 겨워 애국가를 부르고 만세를 불렀다.
(11:40)협곡 도착
* 천지에서 내려오는 물로 손을 넣었더니 10초를 견디지 못하고 손을 뺐다. 너무 차갑다. 식수를 뜨고 간식 후 출발. 기태는 집에 가져가서 먹으려 수통 2개에 물을 넣어간다.
(13:50)백운봉 도착
* 오늘 코스중 제일 힘든 난 코스다. 협곡에서 출발하여 백운봉까지 천천히 걸으며 까끌막에 핀 야생화 천국을 구경하면서 가도 진짜 힘들다. 참고로 백두산 야생화는 1,200 여종이란다.
(14:10~14:40)중 식
* 녹명봉 직전 아담한 곳에서 점심식사. 천지를 앞에 두고 밥이 목에 넘어가지 않는다. 감격에 겨워.
* 쐬주 한잔에 행복한 기분을 만끽하다. 나보다 더 행복한 사람 있으면 나와봐 !!!!!!!
(15:00)녹명봉 도착
(15:50)용문봉 입구
* 이제 천지와 이별한다. 내일 날씨가 좋으면 다시뵐께요 인사하고 달문을 옆에 두고 하산.
(16:00)옥벽협곡(옥벽폭포)으로 하산시작 장백폭포를 보다.
* 옥벽에서 장백폭포를 보았다. 관기안(寬琪岸)언덕을 지나기 직전 옥벽에서 높이 68미터의 장백폭포에서 떨어지는 물소리가 여기서도 들렸다. 웅장한 푹포에서 떨어지는 물소리가 천둥소리가 되어 들린다. 잠시동안 열렸던 운무가 다시 몰려오더니 장백폭포를 닫아버렸다. 우리팀 바로 뒤에온 약 20명의 울산팀은 장백을 보지 못했다.백두산은 하루에 백두번 기상이 변한다고 해서 그래서 백두산이라 한단다.
(16:30)금벽으로 해서 하산
*다리가 스믈 스믈 아파온다.
(17:20)옥벽폭포를 만나다.
*옥벽폭포가 제법 이쁘다.
(18:00)소천지를 못보고 하산완료.(18:00)
*너무 피곤해 바로옆에 있는 천지를 닯았다는 소천지를 보지 못하고 하산
완료.
(18:10)온천
*온천으로 피로를 풀다. 백두산은 이 한여름에 손을 넣지못할 만큼 차가운 물이 있는가 하면 82'c 온천수가 존재하는 산이다. 요금은 우리돈 \10,000.
(19:00)두견산장 투숙
(19:30)석 식
* 산이라 어디 갈데도 없는데 저녁먹고 일찍 취침해야했다.
(21:00)취 침
* 같이 산행한 일행이랑 맥주며 소주 그리고 고량주로 하산주 한잔하다. 그리고 취침. 내일 기상이 좋으면 천문봉을 올라 다시 천지를 품에 안을것을 기대하며..
제 3일차 (8월1일) : 천문봉 관광. 용정 관광. 두만강 관광. 장춘으로 이동
(06:00)기상
(06:50)찦차출발
(07:10)천문봉 주차장 도착 천문봉을 오르다
* 기상이 좋아 천문봉을 오르기로 했다. 30여분 만에 천문봉 주차장 도착. 10분 걸으면 천문봉이다.푸른 천지호수가 우릴 반긴다. 건너편 좌측에 장군봉과 북한초소가 뚜렷이 손에 잡힐듯이 보인다. 기온이 낮아 기태는 춥단다. 사진을 실컷 찍고 커피한잔하고 07시 40분 출발
(08:10)조 식: 두견산장에서 조식 음식이 맞지않아 고생이다. 담엔 꼭 고추장을 가져와야지.
(09:00)출 발
*백두산을 뒤로하고 연길을 향해 출발. 기태에게 부탁했다. 나중에 네 아들과 꼭 다시 오돼 통일 된 우리땅으로 등정하라고 <마음속으로 하루빨리 통일 되기를 빌었다>
(09:40)이도백하 통과: 미인송을 지나가면서 보았다.
(11:50~12:30)북한전시관 관람
*북한에서 중국으로 파견된 외화벌이 사업체
자연산 상황버섯, 우황청심환,북한우표 등을 팔았다.
(13:00)명월호수
* 약 10년의 공사를 사람의 힘으로 만 만든 엄청 큰 호수로 연변지역 농업 용수용
(14:00)연길외곽
(15:00)중식: 연길 외곽에서 중식. 입에 맞지 않았다.
(15:30)용정 일송정과 해란강
*가곡 선구자의 고향이다. 일송정은 가고 없고 그 앞에 덩그러니 정자가 하나 있는데 그곳도 갈수없단다.(고구려 역사를 뒤집더니 출입금지도 동북공정의 일환인가 하여 안타깝다.
(일송정 까지 3시간 소요됨)
*해란강 용문교 위에서 기념촬영.
*백두산 관광사업이 이지역 지방정부 수익 15% 차지.한국과 수교후 조선족을 중심으로 연변지역 발전에 박차, 특히 조선족 방한으로 수입증대 효과.
(15:50~16:40)대성중학교 방문
*민족시인 윤동주의 출신학교로 수많은 독립투사를 배출. 용정의 6개교를 차후 통합.
*서글픈 일제하 이민사를 대변하고 아직까지 존재하는 중등부와 고등부로 발전.
(17:00)아산뢰 경유: 두만강 접경지역
*조,중 국경지역으로 북한쪽 산은 개간되어 나무가 전혀 보이지 않음.반대로 중국쪽 산은 우거져 밀림같이 보여 대비됨. 그래도 식량난에 허덕인다니...
(17:30)도문시 도착:
*두만강의 중국이름이 도문강이다. 바로 건너편이 북한의 남양시 인데 낡은 아파트가 페인트가 다 벗겨지고 남루하기 이를데 없다.다리에는 양쪽 초소가 보이고 군인들이 근무하고 있었다.
(17:40~18:10)도문강 공원
* 두만강 푸른물에 뱃사공은 간데없고 유람 보트만 있었다. 한국 관광객을 위해 보트를 빌려준다
*지척이 우리땅인데 기분이 몹시 씁쓸하다. (강폭이 20~100 m로 다리걷고 건너도 됨)
(19:00)연길 웅담공장 방문
(19:40~20:50)석식: 연길 한라산 불고기 집 오랫만에 제대로 된밥을 먹다. 술도한잔 걸치고..
(21:00)진달래 광장: 연길 한 복판 진달래 광장. 수많은 시민들을 볼 수 있다. 생동감이 넘친다.
(22:00)공항으로 이동~ 공항도착 (23:10)
(24:00)연길을 떠나다: 우리 동포가 많이사는 연길을 떠나 장춘으로 향 함.
제4일차 (8월2일) : 귀국
(01:00)장춘도착: 장춘 가이드가 미니 버스를 가지고 대기. 숙소로 이동 30분 소요
(02:00)투숙:너무 피곤해 호텔 이름도 모르겠다. 귀국을 위해 짐을 정리하고 취침
*잠이 안온다. 남은 쏘주 한병을 동료들과 같이 마시려 했는데 모두 피곤해 나만혼자 살짝 마시고 누웠다. 기태는 피곤한지 약하게 코를 곤다.
(06:00)기 상:
(06:30)호텔에서 조식: 한테이블에 13명이 다 않으란다. 이놈의 중국 떼놈들은 엉뎅이가 없나?
(07:00)호텔출발
(07:40)장춘공항 도착
(08:00)출국수속(08:00):
*수속뒤 출국장에서 대기중 커피를 마시려 했지만 커피가 없다.근데 마침 커피 써비스를 하고 있었다. 일행에게 얼른 알리고 중국에서 첨으로 공짜 음식을 얻어 마셨다. 웬일??.. 아자.!!!
(08:40)탑 승: 10시경 기내식이 나왔다. 한끼 또 때웠다.
(10:50)인천공항 도착: 입국수속 후 짐을 찾고 공항버스로 서울 이동
(13:00)서울역 도착
(13:30)KTX 탑승
(16:20)부산역 도착
* 역에 집사람이 마중 나왔다. 같이 동행하지 못해 미안한데 마중까지 나와줘 고맙고 미안했다.
기 타:백두산 종주등반과 관광은 7월~8월에 집중되며, 종주등반은 이시기 이외에는 폭설로 효과적인 종주가 불가능함. 천지의 푸른 물결과 장백폭포의 하얀 물줄기 & 형형색색 피어나는 야생화와 푸른 원시림이 탄성을 자아내게 한다.누구나 한번은 올라야 할 우리들의 산이다. 백두산은 하루에 백두번이나 기상이 변한다고 해서, 하루에 백두번이나 흰머리가 된다고 해서(구름 운해로 머리가 하얗게 변한다고 함) 또 정상에 흰눈을 뒤집어 쓰고 있어 백두산 이라고 부른다고 하지만 우리에게는 하나밖에 없는 정말 소중한 우리들 산이다.
참고로 중국을 경유해 종주등반은 8월이 적당하며 개인적인 용품은 미리 한국에서 준비하되 현지에서 구입하는 물품은 거의 다가 가짜임을 명심하시기 바람. 현지에서는 한국화폐가 통용되나 일반적인 환율보다 훨씬 비싸게 통용
됨.
수고하신 김홍수 대장님 이하 뽁국집 사장님을 비롯하여 함께한 산정산악회 여러분들께 진심으로 감사드리며 좋은 산행을 마쳐 정말 고맙다는 인사를 드립니다. 모두들 건강하게 산에서 뵈올것을 약속 드립니다. 감사합니다.
작성: 2004.08.03. 김 선 환/ 아들 김 기 태.
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