5월25일 지리산 세석평원 철쭉산행
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25회 다운로드 | DATE : 2003-04-23 16:17:00
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코 스:거림-세석평원 철쭉 군락지-한신계곡-백무동.산행시간:6시간소요.회
비:\20.000 .준비물:도시락.물
봄이면 난만(爛漫)히 피어나는 철쭉으로 온통 꽃사태를 이루는 세석평전은 30리가 넘는드넓은 평원으로 남녘 최대의 고원이다. 이름 그대로 잔돌(細石)이 많고, 시원한 샘물도 콸콸 쏟아지는 세석평전에는 수십만 그루의 철쭉이 5월초부터 6월말까지 일제히 꽃망울을 터뜨리며 한바탕 흐트러진 잔치가 벌어진다.
피빛처럼 선연하거나, 처녀의 속살처럼 투명한 분홍빛의 철쭉이 바다처럼 드넓게 펼쳐지는 절정기에는 산악인들의 물결로 세석평전은 발디딜 틈이 없을 정도다. 시인 김석(金汐)은 "세석 계곡 가득히 피어있는 철쭉꽃, 그 사이사이로 울고 있는 뻐꾹새 소리, 훈풍이 꽃 사이로 지날 때마다 꽃들의 환상적이고 화사한 흔들림, 그것은 남녘 나라 눈매 고운 처녀들의 완숙한 꿈의 잔치"라고 이곳의 철쭉을 노래하기도 했다.
지리산 철쭉은 조정래의『태백산맥』의 처절하도록 서럽게 그러나 꺾이지 않는 의지의 화신(化身)으로 등장하는 진달래와 더불어, 봄의 지리산을 단장하는 명물로 뭇 사람들의 사랑을 받고 있다. 지리산 넓고 깊은 산자락과 골짜기에 꽃 물결이 출렁이면 지리는 활활 타오른다. 수천, 수만 그루의 철쭉꽃이 붉게 물들면 세석평원은 아고산대 특유의 운치를 자아내며 인간을 유혹한다. 지리의 웅장함과 광활함을 보여주는 곳이며 지리의 섬세함과 아름다움을 말해주는 곳이기도 한 세석평원. 세석, 잔돌이 지천으로 널려 있다는 뜻으로 불린다. 고원지형을 형성하고 있어 세석고원으로도 지さ풉竪 한다.
해발 1703m의 촛대봉과 1651m의 영신봉을 좌우로 세우고 둘레 8Km에 걸쳐 넓게 펼쳐져 있다. 지리산 가운데 노고단과 함께 아고산대 지형으로 색다른 운치를 풍기는 곳이기도 하다. 아고산대는 남한에서는 보기 드문 지형으로 고산 특유의 지형으로 알려지고 있다. 끊이지 않고 계속되는 바람과 운무를 동반하고 있는 기후 특성 탓에 이 지대에는 2m 안팎의 나무들만 제대로 자라 일대가 마치 평원을 연상케 하는 특징이 있다. 국립공원관리공단에서는 아고산대의 희소성을 중시하고 세석일원의 훼손방지를 위해 세석 아고산대 복원 작업을 추진하고 있을 정도로 이 일대가 심각하게 훼손되고 있어 각별한 관심과 주의가 요구된다.
해발 1600m의 고지 일원에는 매년 5월 하순부터 6월 초순, 초여름이 시작될 무렵이면 진홍빛으로 물들어 철쭉꽃 향연이 베풀어진다. 근년들어 바래봉 일대의 철쭉이 세석보다 훨씬 진한 색깔을 풍기며 아름답다 해 수많은 인파들이 몰리고 자치단체에서는 세석에서의 철쭉제를 모방, 바래봉 철쭉제를 베풀기도 하지만 중요한 것은 바래봉 철쭉은 결코 세석 철쭉에 견줄 수 없다는 것이다. 해발 1100m의 철쭉(바래봉)이 결코 1600m의 세석 철쭉이 갖고 있는 그 무엇을 흉내낼 수 없음이다. 어느 곳의 철쭉이 더 아름답고 장관이냐를 두고 굳이 비교하자는 것은 아니다. 바래봉의 그것은 그것대로의 운치를 가질 뿐이며 세석의 철쭉은 그대로 색다른 멋을 갖고 있을 뿐이다.
세석의 철쭉에는 애틋한 사연이 담겨 있다. 이 전설은 신비한 샘인 음양수와 얽혀 있다. 음양수는 세석에서 남부능선 방향으로 1Km남짓 내려가면 있는데 자녀를 갖지 못 하는 여인이 산신령께 기도를 하고 음양수 샘물을 마시면 소원이 성취된다는 신앙의 샘이다.
최대의 철쭉 군락지에는 매년 6월 첫주말마다 철쭉제가 열린다. 이 산상 축제는 전국적으로 알려져 한때는 수만의 인파가 몰려 세석철쭉이 크게 훼손되기도 했다. 철쭉제는 3회(74년) 때부터 미스 철쭉 선발대회를 시작했으며 5회 때는 지리대상을 수여해 전국의 산꾼들이 몰려든다. 철쭉제행사는 그러나 88년까지 5년간 중단되기도 했다. 이 기간에는 공식행사는 중단하고 진주산악회원들만 올라 산신제를 모셔왔다. 수많은 인파들로 철쭉이 훼손됐기 때문. 5년여 동안 훼손된 세석이 복구된 후 89년 6월 3일 18회 철쭉제를 부활했던 것이다. 이후로 철쭉제 행사는 자연보호경진대회로 성격을 바꾸고 야영은 거림에서 하고 다음날 자연보호대회와 미스철쭉선발대회를 세석등 지리산 일원에서 가지는 형태로 모습을 바꾸었다.
세석은 철쭉의 향연 못지 않게 우리에게 역사의 현장이었음을 전해주는 요소가 많이 있다. 신라시대에는 화랑도의 수련장으로 이용돼 호연지기를 살리기에 부족함이 없는 도장이었으며 조선말기에는 동학농민들의 전장이었다. 세석은 또한 일제 당시는 징용과 징병을 거부하며 산으로 들어온 이들의 안식처로서의 역할을 다했으며 6·25를 전후해서는 빨치산의 근거지가 된 역사의 현장이기도 했다.
세석평원에는 지금 대피소가 신축되고 있는데 규모가 지하 1층 지상 2층에 연건평이 1백97평에 이른다. 해발1600m 고지대에 포크레인까지 동원해 대대적으로 벌여지고 있는 공사현장 바로 곁에는 군부대 시설이 수년 전부터 갖춰져 마치 난공불락의 요새처럼 보이기도 해 다소 안타까운 마음이다. 뿐만아니라 촛대봉 정상 남쪽에는 군부대에서 참호와 진지를 구축해 촛대봉에서 세석을 내려다 보면 여간 볼썽사나운 모습이 아니다. 천혜의 경관과 아고산대 특유의 운치가 차츰 사라져 가고 있음을
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